BS EN 569:2007 pdf free.Mountaineering equipment — Pitons—Safety requirementsand test methods.
BS EN 569 This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for pitons for use in mountaineeringincluding climbing. For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
piton device which，when inserted into a rock crack by means of a hammer or equivalent device,provides ananchor.
NOTE Two parts can normally be identified in the piton: the head and the blade.
head part of the piton which contains the attachment point eye (or eyes) used for connection to the rope (via aconnector) and which is usually the part struck when inserting the piton.
blade part of the piton which is inserted into the rock crack.
length of the piton length of the blade measured in the direction of its insertion into the crack.
pulling shackle tool used to apply the force in the test.
When tested according to 4.1, the eye shall have an internal diameter of at least 15 mm.See b) inFigure 1.
lf pitons are made from heat treated steel with a hardness greater than 38 HRC they have to appeardark. Pitons which are made from all other materials and a hardness less than 22 HRC have to appear light.The head and the eye shall be free from burrs and sharp edges.
Breaking force When tested in accordance with 4.2, the breaking force shall be not less than the appropriate value given inTable 1.
The apparatus shall consist of
a vice for holding the piton at a pressure that does not lead to visible deformation of the test sample andwith edges of the two jaws holding the piton rounded to a radius of (5± 0,5) mm (see Figure 2). At leastone of the jaws rotates in order to accommodate any tapered shape in the piton;
a means of preventing extraction and rotation of the piton, e.g. one or two pins.Ensure that the outer holedrilled in the piton blade respectively the fixing system remains at least 20 mm from the outer surface ofthe jaw (see Figure 2);
a pulling shackle, made of steel, with a diameter of (10± 0,1) mm to apply a force on the piton, the part ofthis device which is nearest to the piton being as indicated in Figures 2 and 3.The shackle rotates freelyaround axes X and Y(see Figure 3), to allow free deformation of the piton.BS EN 569 pdf download.